France: Champagne

Around Reims

The city of Reims and the Montagne de Reims
By Tom Stevenson and Michael Edwards

This Guide was last updated on 25 June 2010
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L'Assiette Champenoise

Address: 40 Avenue Paul Vaillant-Couturier, 51430 Tinqueux
Tel: 03 26 84 64 64  Fax: 03 26 04 15 69
Geo-coordinates:  Latitude: 49:14:50N (49.24730)     Longitude: 4:0:5E (4.00139)  

With two Michelin stars, situated 2km from the city centre, L’Assiette Champenoise sits in its own small park, and is owned by the Lallement family. The late Jean-Pierre Lallement occasionally used to vie with Gerard Boyer, even though Lallement had just one Michelin star compared to Boyer’s three. The kitchen is now overseen by Arnaud Lallement, who has – with a couple of reservations – deserved the achievement that so eluded his father. When Arnaud first arrived, there were two or three courses of amuse bouche before the meal, one between each course, and a veritable sweetshop of gaudy items before the dessert. However, these are more excesses than inconsistencies, and Arnaud is still young and learning to calm down. Somewhat unpredictable, when he gets something right, it can be sublime, such as the ravioli dish on his seasonal black truffle menu, his dream trio of Asperge Verte de Robert Blanc, or the Turbot Breton. There is a comfortable hotel attached also run by the family with 55 rooms of varying sizes and an indoor swimming pool.

Useful information: Menus: €59 (lunch) and €130 - €155 (evenings). Closed all day Tuesday, and on Wednesday lunchtime and the last two weeks of February. Rooms: €160-€245; breakfast: €16. Hotel open all year except at Christmas.

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