France: Corsica

Northern Corsica

Wine regions of Calvi, Patrimonio and the Cap Corse
By Tom Fiorina

This Guide was last updated on 18 July 2013
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Places to eat

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La Ferme de Campo di Monte

Address: 20239 Murato
Tel: 04 95 37 64 39   Fax: 04 95 37 64 60
Geo-coordinates:  Latitude: 42:34:35N (42.576464)    Longitude: 9:20:17E (9.337933) 

Literally over-the-river, and through the maquis, La Ferme de Campo di Monte outside of the village of Murato (18km south of St-Florent) is like eating at a Corsican grandmother’s home, if the grandmother lived in a 15th -century fortified, stone farmhouse and required reservations weeks in advance. Pauline Julliard uses traditional recipes handed down for generations in her family, while her son Eric serves up the food along with generous helpings of humour. Storzapretti - delicious gratinéed cheese, egg and Swiss chard dumplings baked in the oven to an ethereal puffiness, Eric explains, were served on Sundays by noble families who entertained the priest following mass. “This is a light dish,” he notes, “that the priest could eat until he choked”; henceforth its name, which translates literally as “priest choker”. He also takes great delight in scaring tourists with the platter of Corsican cheese, which has a reputation, even in France, the land of strong-tasting cheese, as being especially aromatic. But they’re serious about their eating at Campo di Monte. The Soupe Corse is the best that I’ve ever eaten (fortunately, my Corsican mother-in-law doesn’t read English), made from a meaty ham bone (schincu in Corsican), filled with a garden’s worth of vegetables and herbs, and served in a large tureen. All of the food is served family style, in large quantities, and Eric smiles when you return the serving dishes empty, but he has what might be interpreted as a scolding glance when you may not have been able to finish the copious servings. Pauline raises her own veal, which Eric explains is red, not white, as it spends its days out in the pasture, and not in a dark barn. The dessert is a beignet de bruccio, the size of a grapefruit, which is served with fig jam and Clémentines confites (Clementine oranges preserved in syrup). Under Eric’s instruction, you break open the beignet with your fork, add a generous spoonful of jam or Clementines, and dribble over it some homemade eau-de-vie. They also rent several rooms in Casa Morati, a lovingly restored house in the village of Murato.

Useful information: One menu: €52. Open for dinner only, seven days a week, from June 1 - September 20. The rest of the year, open Thursday, Friday, Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch. Reservations are essential. Credit cards not accepted.

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