France: Rhône Valley

Around Ampuis and Condrieu

The wines of Côte Rôtie, Condrieu and Saint Joseph
By John Wheeldon

This Guide was last updated on 08 August 2011
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Places to eat

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Hotel Restaurant Schaeffer

Address: 34 Quai Jules-Roche, N86, 07340 Serrières
Tel: 04 75 34 00 07  Fax: 04 75 34 08 79
Geo-coordinates:  Latitude: 45:19:2N (45.31728)     Longitude: 4:45:58E (4.76613)  

This is my favourite restaurant stop in the Northern Rhône. Three generations of Schaeffers have been running this restaurant for years and it is always full of French families enjoying the excellent and reasonably priced food. The ambiance and service is classically French and very welcoming. Surprisingly it seems to be little known by English or Americans and I have yet to meet either here. Schaeffer specialises in game and truffles in season but also has imaginative and lighter dishes. It is unique in my experience of being equally good at its ’Logis’ menu for business travellers and its ’degustation’ menu, which was superb when I stayed there again in December 2009 and had the best meal I have eaten in France for some time. The wine list is a model of its kind with all the top growers from Côte Rôtie and Condrieu and good coverage of the rest of the Northern Rhône. Thoroughly recommended.

Useful information: Menus €23 (weekday lunch)-€45 (€95 for the tasting menu and €140 for the full truffle menu). Closed Mondays, Saturday lunchtimes and Sunday evenings. Closed 2 -15 January and two weeks in August.

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